Miracles Excerpt: "Pahchulaka"
I have stood here before, when winters are wet and the river swollen with runoff, and felt the overlook's metal girders under my feet tremble and vibrate with the force of the cascading water. With thousands of gallons of water falling over the rocks, Shoshone Falls can be too big for words.
But today the water barely trickles over the edge of the rocks, diverted instead to irrigate crops in this southern Idaho desert. Even so, what I see is impressive. As I look at the sand-colored rocks, I remember how, as a teenager, I climbed on those rocks and walked where, in high water years, I could have been swept over the edge and plummeted into the turbulent river hundreds of feet below.
No one is walking on the sand-colored rocks today. We're in the middle of another drought year, the fourth one in a row, and the river is low enough that I can see small puddles where water is starting to settle.
"It isn't Niagara Falls," a tourist beside me says.
"I know," another answers. "I'm from Boston, and, yes, this looks nothing like Niagara. But I'm sure it's impressive when the water's running."
"It's higher than Niagara," I interject. "Some say as much as fifty feet."
"Really?" They both turn and look toward the falls.
"Is this where Evel Knievel tried to jump the canyon?" the one with the camera asks.
"No," I laugh and point downstream. "But several people have been swept to their deaths here. One summer a daredevil rode a canoe over the edge and lived to talk about it."
"No kidding?" They stand on their toes and peer over the railing. One of them whistles.
"Enjoy the park," I say, walking toward a knoll. I don't tell them I've visited Niagara Falls too. But Niagara didn't leave me speechless, not like Pahchulaka. There's no reason to tell them that I prefer the tranquility here in the park surrounding Shoshone Falls over the confusion of the aerial tours, tourist boats and yellow slickers continuously bombarding the falls at Niagara.


